When was that transformation from settling for average surf to almost thrill seeking on the bigger waves?
Pretty much when I was nine years old when Mark Foo had passed away at Mavericks I just always wanted to surf it. I was always a tomboy and doing what ever people told me I could not do. And there were no girls that had surfed Mavericks so I said I am going to be the first girl to surf it. I was actually the third girl to do it. I had been touring in competition and trying to beat my mom’s ranking until about 19 years old when I kind of figured out it was not for me. That’s when I ran into my good friend Jamiliah Star who holds the world record for riding the biggest wave by a woman. She told me “you can do it.” What was her role in your development? She invited me to come out to the North Shore and to train her and her team. So I moved out to the North Shore when I was 19 just for a month. She kind of showed me the ropes by leading by example. Just watching her drop in on bombs, it was so inspirational. Share the type of training you went through to prepare because in truth you were l
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