Whats the best way to learn to surf?
You can teach yourself. I just moved to Honolulu and recently learned to surf. I’d rate myself somewhere between beginner and intermediate. The hardest thing about learning to surf is mastering the one second or so you have to get your board on the wave and then stand up. It is completely a matter of timing, and comes only from practice. Basically, when the wave starts to break, paddle like hell; when it “catches” you, stand up. The first few times you go out you’ll be tired late in the session and sore afterwards from paddling and being prone so much. Rent or borrow a 10-foot or so board; they’re easier to paddle and balance yourself on. After you get better you’ll want a shorter board, but that won’t be for a while. I’ve found that the advice you can get in “Learn to Surf” books is pretty reasonable. There will be advice on how to size up water conditions, how not to be rude (stealing somebody’s wave for example), how to stay out of the way, what kind of camraderie to expect, safety,
