Whats it like to ride a monster wave?
When you are sitting out there and you see this giant wall of water coming at you, every single time, you have to think to yourself, “Are you really ready to do this?” You need that reality check because there are consequences. You never know what is going to happen. There are so many variables out of your control that if something were to go wrong, it is life and death. Then it’s just a few seconds staring at this thing, every bit of knowledge I’ve gained over the years of surfing, learning wave judgment, swell directions, the ins and outs of the breaks, all run through my head. No two waves are ever the same, so everything comes down to your natural instinct and reaction living in that one second. You turn around, put your head down and paddle your heart out, and you do not think twice. Once you get up and see your feet you are just focusing on the few inches above the nose of your board and you feel the wave growing behind you. The whitewater is building right behind you, chasing yo
