What was the expedition philosophy?
This was not a standard “guided” expedition in the same sense I went on to Everest or Cho Oyu. While there were professional climbers along as well as local Pakistani climbers with high altitude experience, this expedition was more independent in nature. We set up our own tents, cook our own HA meals, carried a lot of group gear and fix some of our own ropes up the mountains. We needed to be very self-sufficient. The plan was to acclimatize during the Broad Peak climb while some of the high altitude porters were fixing the route on K2 and stocking the camps with food, fuel, tents and oxygen. The plan was to move straight onto K2 and reduce the time spent on the Abruzzi Ridge. Of course, the weather had the final say on K2!