What is the best time of the year to go there?
Adventure Advisor: Since the Galapagos became a national park, access has been strictly controlled by the government — getting permission to wander solo (without an official government-trained naturalist guide) is nearly impossible. So, even if the thought of traveling as part of a tour generally makes you cringe, in this case it might not be a bad idea. There are plenty of companies out there that feel incredibly non tour-like. Wilderness Travel (800-368-2794, www.wildernesstravel.com) offers five- to ten-day island cruises that touch on all the Galapagos high points without making you feel like you’re being babysat. Be sure your group makes a stop on Tower Island, where you can check out the red-footed boobies and kayak in Darwin Bay. In fact, the more islands you visit the better, since each supports an entirely different set of exotic wildlife. The islands basically have two seasons: wet (January through April) and dry (May through December), but weather can vary drastically no ma