What do you think about Village Voice food critic Robert Sietsema calling the show bogus?
I wouldn’t say bogus. It’s a jarring experience. You have, like, 10 minutes before you go out to check your pantry ingredients and then you’re pushed into the bright lights and smoke. You have one hour to cook all the food and have one portion plated. That’s why winning the coin toss is a big deal, because you can pick if you want to go first or second. I thought it was so funny that you got Battle Chocolate, because of the face you made one night at Alinea when we were talking about how clients always want chocolate desserts. I don’t hate chocolate, but it’s the only flavor on Earth that, if it’s not on the menu, heads will roll. It’s not that way with vanilla or coffee. It’s the shrimp of the pastry world. Why can’t we break free from that freaking format? The spring menu is going to be my first one where I’m not going to have any chocolate. Everything is delicious, so if people don’t like it they can go to hell. What else is going on, besides work? I’m in the March issue of Vogue. [