What do I need to know to be a good trad leader?
[back to top] [FAQ contents] From: Mike Yukish So my definition of a trad leader is “someone who can ensure the safe execution of a trad lead climb.” As I see it, its all about responsibility. To be a leader,then, one should have all of the technical skills of the trade, such as basic pro stuff, and of the rescue techniques. I am still learning here. The leader should be able to judge the hazards, and plan the climb accordingly, taking into consideration the party’s desires weighed against their skills and abilities. Also, and here’s the biggie, the leader should have the mental coolness to deal with the unforseen circumstances, evaluate, and execute a plan formed on the spot in response. Where does the plan come from? Everything he’s experienced read, heard, seen, and from common sense. From: blyslv It seems to me that if difficult gymnastics on the rock is the only interest, one should stick to sport climbing, bouldering or top-roping. Aside from difficuilt gymnastics, trad climbing
