What are some of the more interesting facts about surfing in pre-contact Hawaii?
Well, basically surfing was a lifestyle and not a sport in ancient times. It was a religious activity practiced not only by those who were barely to walk at a young age to barely able to walk because of old age. It was a way of life. Nowadays a way of life is watching TV and drive cars. There wasn’t very much to do in ancient times so surfing was the number one past time. People would bet their wives, their lives, their children, all they own –the clothes on their back –on their favorite surfers or even on their own surfing prowess. In fact, women, as a matter of fact, were considered in many ways more proficient than men in ancient times.
