Is Sarajevo a real mess at the moment, after the war, or are they recovering well?
I was in Sarajevo in 2003, and it didn’t seem like a real mess to me. There was still quite a bit of evidence of the war (i.e. scars on buildings, and pavement, bunkers on the hills above the city, and HUGE parks converted to cemetaries to bury the dead while under siege). Even then, however, the city had removed much of what was destroyed, and started rebuilding. I think the clean-up was/is pretty slow in Bosna, but Sarajevo being the capital, got a lot of attention and I can only assume it’s better now. I think that the “messiest” part that is left to clean up, not just in Sarajevo but all of Bosna is landmines. There are still warnings not to wander off the beaten paths around the cities, or into wreckage as there is a real danger that you might step on something. All that being said, the city of Sarajevo is so BEAUTIFUL! When I visited, I wanted to stay. I highly suggest getting there if you can, and speak with as many locals as possible. They are very friendly and willing to share
