I am not as familiar with the Kautz route. How is it different?
The Kautz is a less frequently climbed route, but one that offers a good challenge to the fit and modestly experienced participant. It was the first route attempted on Mt. Rainier (1857). Day one: We start at Paradise and hike up to Panorama Point (6,000 feet), then drop down onto the lower Nisqually Glacier, rope up and cross the glacier. We climb up a gully/chute on the opposite side to just below 8,000 feet and set up camp. Day two: We hike up the Turtle Snowfield to high camp alongside Wapowety Cleaver between 9,500 and 10,500 feet. Day three: Summit day. We cross from the Wapowety Cleaver to the Kautz Glacier via a vertical rock step the guides lower the group over. This is the safest access to the Glacier, minimizing exposure time to hazards above There is some objective hazard in the form of rockfall or icefall mostly occurring on the traverse under Kautz Ice Cliff, but the majority of the hazard is limited to a short section of the route, several hundred feet in length. Then we
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- I am not as familiar with the Kautz route. How is it different?
