How in the world do you communicate which rope requires slack for clipping when the wind is howling and you are around the corner and out of sight of your belayer on something like the Grand Teton?
Ummm… just like you communicate with a single. The leader tugs, wheeps, curses, prayes and tugs again and the belayer pays out as much slack as he/she thinks is necessary. Which rope is tugged is easy to tell (the belayer is holding onto them) and if unsure, well, give slack on both then take in what seems to be unused. If you give too much slack or always on the wrong rope the leader kicks your butt at the top, if you don’t give enough the leader kicks your butt at the top – the life of the belayer, single or double. From: Eric Coomer Someone here once suggested there is a potential problem with the 2 lead ropes rubbing against one another in a fall where both ropes are clipped to once piece through one biner. This “situation” is only a *possibility* if you’re using standard double rope technique and decide to clip both ropes into one biner ala twin technique somewhere along the route. The *theory* is that since the two ropes by virtue of the double technique take different paths (a
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