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How important is experience at high altitude?

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How important is experience at high altitude?

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Question: Hi Jon, Enjoyed the Outside account of the Everest climb; certainly it conveyed the difficulty of climbing at high altitude, and the combination of bad luck and little mistakes that led to the tragic deaths. My question: In the article you made a point of mentioning that you had little experience at high altitude compared to the guides and some of the other clients, yet you also have considerable experience in the mountains, and with hard, technical climbing. In retrospect, do you feel that experience at altitude is as important as you thought at the time of your trip, and would the results have turned out differently if you had followed your “climbing wisdom” instead of following the guides’ directions? Related question: Would you go on another guided expedition, or would you just do the research and deal with the unknown elements in your own way, and with your own team? Thanks, Dennis Roscetti dennis_r@smtpgate.bcsew.edu Jon: Dear Dennis, After what I experienced in the Him

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