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How do the traditional routes compare on Everest: North Ridge or Side Col?

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How do the traditional routes compare on Everest: North Ridge or Side Col?

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Neither is easy, just different. The south has the dangers of the Khumbu Icefall where most deaths have occurred since 2000. And there is the Hillary Step on the south which is challenging for some. The north is a little more technically difficult with rock climbing around the two steps on the ridge – even with the ladder on the 2nd Step. The camps on the north are 1,000-2,000′ higher than similar camps on the south thus making summit day shorter. But your body degrades faster at higher altitude so there is a tradeoff. The north can be colder and get more snow than the south. Finally the ladders in the Khumbu Icefall are only maintained through the end of May thus giving a definite end date to the season. There is no such deadline on the north and climbers can stay as long as the weather holds for a summit bid. See my pages on routes for a more complete description of the routes: North and South.

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