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How do scientists study rip currents?

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How do scientists study rip currents?

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Coastal scientists have been investigating rip currents for more than 75 years. Generally, this research has been conducted through field observations and measurements, laboratory measurements and wave tank experiments, and computer and numerical modeling. In Delaware Sea Grant research at UD s Center for Applied Coastal Research, coastal engineers are using computer models and wave basin experiments to learn more about the development of rip currents. In a 4,500-square-foot wave basin, they are studying how rip currents form and interact with an artificial offshore bar and sloping beach. They also are working to develop and install coastal observation and video-monitoring systems along Delaware s and Maryland s Atlantic coast beaches to further enhance rip current modeling and prediction efforts. Why are rip currents so dangerous? Rip currents are especially hazardous because they can be difficult to identify and they are often encountered by people who have no experience with ocean w

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