How do I catch waves to surf for sport (as opposed to trying to just get in safely)?
Establish a position in the waves where you desire to catch the waves, making sure that it is clear of other surfers and that swimmers aren’t going to be slayed in your path. Note relevant rocks, piers, and corral reef formations. Start counting waves in each set and get a feel for the pattern. When you see one you like, paddle hard to acquire maximum speed, and lean forward as the wave arives. You will have to use a ruddering action with your paddle to maintain your desired direction or angle to the wave. Keep the beach-side of your gunnel raised and lean into the wave. You will find you paddle being used for steering control and bracing simultaneously. Next is the tricky part. The best rides are right at or in the edge of where the spilling wave is spilling, while aiming the boat slightly away from the breaking area, maintaining that relative position to the sliding spilling crest of the wave. Executing good boat control and style while there is what separates the surfers from the la
