How Are Different Waves Approached By Surfers?
From time immemorial, waves have inspired and enthralled people. There are different kinds of waves which include the small waves which travel at a speed of few knots, the medium-sized waves which travel at a speed of tens of knots and large waves which travel 30-50knots per hours. Tsunamis are the largest waves with a speed of about 450 knots. 1 knot is equal to 1 nautical mile per hour. Surfers just love the big waves which rise in the middle of the ocean. On sight of these biggies, they grab their boards and head for the beach. Surfing begins with the surfer riding an easy simple wave on the horizon and then matching its speed by paddling. Once the wave begins to carry the surfer forward, the surfer instantly leaps to his or her feet and rides down the face of the wave, staying just ahead of the white water (“the breaking part) of the wave. Manoeuvres like turning and carving through the waves are enhanced skills of the surfer rather than just trying to control the surf-board. Some
