Don some people — like cookbook author Marion Cunningham — disagree, citing the proliferation of processed foods and the fact that people don eat at home much anymore?
I just turned 40 and Cunningham is 80. She’s from a different generation. She goes back to a pre-processed-food time, when farm-to-table was an unremarkable thing. So she’s looking at it from an idealized view. Cooking was more labor-intensive then. It was able to happen because women stayed at home. It’s very unfair to women to continue to expect it. If that’s the cost of progress, it’s not a big cost to pay. Sure, there weren’t Oscar Meyer Lunchables and green Heinz ketchup. And of course, now, there are too many people who eat processed foods, and obesity is a huge problem in this country. But there’s so much more variety now. We can have sushi or we can have an heirloom salad. There’s a growing awareness of integrity in food. If Americans cared to — and that’s the caveat — we could be eating better food now than any generation before us. Is it also a great time to be a cook? I think so. I hear conflicting reports on whether home cooking is dying out or burgeoning, but with the po
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