Are there certain critics/writers whom designers love or loathe? Do designers read their press?
In the fashion world, there are only three influential critics (of those writing in English): Suzy Menkes of the International Herald Tribune, Cathy Horyn of the New York Times, and Bridget Foley of Women’s Wear Daily. While other major newspapers cover fashion in a service-oriented way—that is, they suggest what to buy—the writers are not critiquing fashion as they might film or books. Surely some designers secretly loathe their critics. And some critics secretly loathe certain designers. But the relationship is really one of co-dependence. Critics write, designers show, and neither can do their job without the other. Suzy Menkes, for example, was often very critical of Tom Ford’s work for Gucci and Yves Saint Laurent, but it was also clear that she respected him as a hugely influential talent. Designers—though they may deny it—care about the reviews. Even if they refuse to read them—and many do—they know when the reviews are bad. Friends tell them; they feel it in the air. And show m
