Are America’s Best Croissants in Princeton, New Jersey?
Posted by Carey Jones, February 23, 2009 at 10:00 AM I’ll be the first to admit it: That’s a pretty audacious claim. Our fair nation has no shortage of first-class bakers, whether French, French-schooled, or otherwise, who can turn out one fine pastry. That said, the best croissants that I have had in this country—better than any I have had in New York, or in Boston or in San Francisco, and rivaling those I enjoyed in Paris itself—are from The Little Chef Bakery in Princeton, New Jersey. From this tiny storefront just a few yards from the university campus, the Haitian-born Edwige Fils-Aimé (or “Pouchon,” to friends and regulars) turns out croissants, éclairs, cakes, and desserts that rival anything served in the city. But here, I speak primarily of his pastries. A good croissant, like a well-fried egg or memorable vanilla ice cream, is an excellent reflection of a chef’s ability: Nailing the basics generally indicates true skill. And hand-shaped, classically formed, and nearly always
