Why are there always waves at the beach?
The most common cause of surface ocean waves is air movement (the wind). Waves within the ocean can also be caused by tides, interactions between waves, submatine earthquakes or volcanic activity, and atmospheric disturbances (storms). Wave size depends on wind speed, wind duration, and the distance of water over which the wind blows. The longer the distance the wind travels over water, or the harder it blows, the higher the waves. As the wind blows over the water, it tries to drag the surface of the water with it. The surface water cannot move as fast as air, so the water rises. After it rises, the water is pulled back down by gravity. The falling water’s momentum is carried below the surface, and water pressure from below pushes this swell back up again. This tug of war between gravity and water pressure creates wave motion.
